In this area of modifications I was not keen on visually modifying the car too much if I could help it. The speakers needed an upgrade and I would like a little more bass. Simple enough... Kinda! A little homework surfaced some information that the front speakers benefit for a 5x7 to 6.5 inch speaker adaptor...
A quality speaker - (My pick was the Pioneer TS-D1602r)...
And of course powered by an amp as the factory system would not power these enough to make a nice clean crisp sound. So pilfered from my past ride is my Alpine MRV F345 V12 750w 4channel amp to power both the front and the rears...
Then the parcel shelf speakers were switched out with the Pioneer TS-A5713...
Of course you cant just plug in to the Factory ICC (In Car Computer), the aftermarket systems require RCA's like your Televisions have... The Red, Yellow and White plugs. To do this you need to install a Line Level Converter (or) Hi/Lo Level Converter. This little gadget takes a little power from your front or rear speakers (depending on where you install it) and provides you with a pair of RCA's.
Then with amps that have line in and line out ports you can simply chain together your amps without going crazy on modifying your interior. So after plugging in the Alpine V12 I chained in 2 Kenwood KAC8101D's...
to power 2 Kenwood KFC-W3514DVC's...
In (now) sealed Aerpro boxes...
The 'now' comment is because the Kenwood subs were purchsed in ported boxes and the sound was something I didn't like much also the box size was an issue being that there was 2 in the one boot.
Next for the boot DeeJ from Cabinet Repairs & Replacements (Unit 7/ 39 Hovell St, Wodonga) and my self custom fabbed a false floor to house the amps which we have since placed either side of the sub box to use the false floor for tools etc.
And to finish the boot project off the now BIGGER battery was installed - a: for space reasons due to the increase in size required and b: to free up the space where the airbox should have been originally.
The aftermarket battery tray is bolted down to the floor and a neat and simple clamp-in-box setup was made to hold in snug the 700cca upgraded battery. Due to the location of the fuse box etc the power cable has to be run through or under the car. To protect it from any dangers being road hazards or other, I chose to run it through the cab which has enabled me to fit up an isolator switch in the centre console for use during repairs or similar.
The unfortunate thing with running power under the ICC is that it makes a whining sound like an electronics based whistle that emits through the speakers. This can however be rectified by installing an inline noise suppressor. This is something that will be approached when my speakers are replaced, its not that big of a deal at this point in time. A good thing with installing the Battery in the boot is the bulky 0 gauge cable could be swapped out for a 2 gauge cable which is far easier to work with. When the 0 gauge was to be soldered I had to go to an exhaust shop to use the Oxy/Acetylene torch to get the cable hot enough to feed solder in to, when running the cable it needs support due to the weight, when going through trim it takes alot of effort etc... So a simple 2 gauge can now be implemented because the distance to the stereo is shorter by around 5 feet! So now voltage drop is managed the next thing to fit up is the fused distribution block which feeds the 2 SC201MB 1 Farad capacitors and then off to the rest of the system from there.
The unfortunate thing with running power under the ICC is that it makes a whining sound like an electronics based whistle that emits through the speakers. This can however be rectified by installing an inline noise suppressor. This is something that will be approached when my speakers are replaced, its not that big of a deal at this point in time. A good thing with installing the Battery in the boot is the bulky 0 gauge cable could be swapped out for a 2 gauge cable which is far easier to work with. When the 0 gauge was to be soldered I had to go to an exhaust shop to use the Oxy/Acetylene torch to get the cable hot enough to feed solder in to, when running the cable it needs support due to the weight, when going through trim it takes alot of effort etc... So a simple 2 gauge can now be implemented because the distance to the stereo is shorter by around 5 feet! So now voltage drop is managed the next thing to fit up is the fused distribution block which feeds the 2 SC201MB 1 Farad capacitors and then off to the rest of the system from there.
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